The modern building, home to Van Gogh Art, is located within walking distance from the main river port in Amsterdam, where Century Cruises' new ship, Century Star, docks. The large square, the famous Museumplein, is home to two more famous landmarks – the Stedelijk, a home to contemporary art, and the Rijksmuseum, the national Museum of Dutch art and history. Which one do you visit first? Or do you simply dive into the magical, twinkling Christmas Market that spreads across the frost-kissed square? With the clock ticking, do you linger on one, or dare to chase them all?
We started from the middle, from the Van Gogh Museum. When thinking of the Netherlands, one thinks of fields of colourful tulips, serene canals decorated with the iconic windmills, and Van Gogh.
The visit to Amsterdam is during the Christmas Market season, and one is taking place at the Museumplein square. Although it’s busy and full of the Yule season, the noise can’t be heard in the Museum.
The main building, the Main Rietveld Building, spans four levels and houses the permanent exhibition. The ground floor serves as a lobby and orientation space. It’s spacious, with high ceilings and natural light, and serves as a preparation room before visitors dive into the intense emotional energy of Van Gogh's paintings.
The first floor is everything one doesn’t know about Van Gogh. We often think of blue sky and sunflowers associated with Van Gogh's work. The first floor showcases his early work, depicting life in the Netherlands. The rural life, peasants, Dutch landscapes, and scenes like View of the Sea at Scheveningen are real and heavy. Imagine grey skies and hard labour. And this is when Van Gogh was still developing his style.
The main painting includes The Potato Eaters. It depicts the raw life from 1885, painted in the three main colours – browns, ochres, and greens. There is not much light, making the scene sombre. Van Gogh wrote letters to his brother Theo explaining he wanted to portray people “as they really are, not as they appear in polished, genteel pictures.”
The second floor brings Van Gogh's bright colours, lifting the heaviness of the first-floor visit. The floor is vibrant and energetic. The walls practically glow with yellows, greens, and blues. Here, the visitor can see famous sunflowers and the beginnings of his signature style. The famous painting of his bedroom in the Yellow House in Arles, France, is on display. Its simplicity and vivid colours bring calm.
The third floor shows the peak of Van Gogh’s life. The famous Starry Night over the Rhône is on display. It’s a masterpiece of his work. It combines bright colours, strong emotion, and unique technique.
The last floor is generally dedicated to temporary exhibitions, which often feature special shows about Van Gogh’s contemporaries.
Throughout the Museum, visitors can see self-portraits from various parts of Van Gogh's life, but the famous Self-Portrait with Bandaged Ear is not on display here. This painting is part of the Courtauld Gallery in London.
The atmosphere throughout the Museum is gentle and accommodating. Photography is allowed, so you can snap your favourite paintings. Queues do form, particularly in front of Van Gogh’s most famous works, but the waiting is polite and surprisingly orderly.
We ended our visit with afternoon tea at the Museum Café, gazing over Museumplein, where the Christmas Market shimmered with festive energy. The ice-skating rink in the square seemed almost irresistible, sparkling under twinkling lights. Time felt suspended as we joined the joyful crowds, laughter mingling with the scent of mulled wine, everyone caught up in the magic, the excitement, and the hopeful promise that Christmas brings.
Celebrate the magic of Christmas on the Rhine! Join us for an 8-day luxury cruise from Amsterdam to Basel on the eco-luxury Century Star and make unforgettable holiday memories. Book your cabin today!
